HOW TO CRAFT NOSTALGIA: A DISCUSSION WITH ANNA KOSIDLO

ANNA KOSIDLO (2002) is a multidisciplinary artist focused on fashion from Poland. She's currently studying Fashion Design at Willem at de Kooning Academy in Rotterdam, Netherlands. In this interview, Creative Director MICHA BRAAKSMA talks to KOSIDLO about her fashion journey, the nostalgia that influences her work, and her visions for the industry.

MICHA BRAAKSMA: With your wide scope of interests, what are you currently working on?

ANNA KOSIDLO: I have several projects underway, and they’re all interconnected to a larger creative vision. My work is mostly inspired by Art Nouveau aesthetics, 1920s-1930s fashion, especially Flapper fashion, and by German Expressionist cinema. 

I’ve always enjoyed working with film and video. They add a dynamic element to my storytelling, allowing me to translate my poetic thoughts into motion. At the moment, I’m collaborating with a friend on a short film where I’m responsible for costume design. The film is shot in black and white, and it’s highly symbolic. It brings together all the elements I love.

Independently, I’m working on a project inspired by silent cinema and poetry, aiming to capture the atmosphere of the past and bring it forwards into the modern world. Alongside fashion, I also create collages and paintings. I’m even considering building a mutoscope. It’s a 19th-century flipbook-like device which animates images. 

MB: How does your upbringing in Poland interact with that?

AK: I come from eastern Poland, near one of the oldest forests in Europe. I spent my childhood surrounded by villages rather than big cities, and so when I think of Poland, I think of nature. That’s then probably also why floral motifs are so present in these works.

Of course, growing up in this environment fueled my imagination. The forest inspired me to create stories, influenced by local folklore. Traditional Polish clothing often has puffy sleeves, intricate floral patterns, and vibrant colors, which has also shaped my own aesthetic. I believe that Slavic fashion is often generalized, but each region truly has its own distinct identity. I love exploring that. 

MB: What brought you to the Netherlands?

AK: It was quite unexpected, really. I always imagined myself living in the UK, particularly London. I had visited often and really connected with the city’s energy. But I decided to embrace the adventure when I was accepted to Willem de Kooning Academy.

I’ve always wanted to live in different countries. I get bored easily, and need new environments to stimulate my creativity. So for me, moving to the Netherlands was just one step in a lifelong journey of exploring different countries, cultures, environments.

MB: Do you see yourself staying in the Netherlands, or are you planning on moving elsewhere after your studies?

AK: I appreciate the Netherlands a lot, especially the older cities like Amsterdam, Delft, and The Hague — they inspire me. But, as I said, I get restless. After my studies, I’d like to move again.

One dream I’ve had for a few years is to explore Nordic folklore. I read the Kalevala, which is Finland’s national epic, and it inspired me a lot. I’d love to live in Finland — its rich mythology, landscapes, and winter atmosphere intrigue me. I do also miss Berlin, though. I lived there for a few months at the beginning of 2024, and I could still see myself returning there.

MB: There seems to be a recurring darkness in your aesthetic — black clothing, gothic influences. Is that intentional?

AK: I am drawn to dark themes, but not for the sake of appearing alternative or gothic. For me, black and white symbolize the archetypes of humanity, the contrast between light and darkness, evil and good. I love working with symbolism and archetypes, which translates naturally into my designs.

It also ties back to my love of folklore. Many myths and fairytales revolve around the dynamic between good and evil, shadow and light. That’s also how I see storytelling in my work; not just visually, but thematically. 

MB: Besides designing clothing, you also frequently model in them. How did that develop?

AK: It happened by accident. As a child, I loved dressing up, embodying different characters, which of course later evolved into styling and fashion design. 

One day, a photographer reached out to me, saying I had an interesting face and aesthetic. I agreed to a shoot, styled my own clothes, and I realised I loved the experience. It became addictive. Modeling allows me to bring my design to life, to tell visual stories through photography.

I once also dreamed of being a signed model with an agency, but I think that doesn't fit me. I have a very defined character — a very individualistic style — and I think I would have to give that up. I don’t want to put myself in a box, and don't want to sacrifice my core identity. Instead I just love being present in my own work I that I make. I want to embody my own designs, much like John Galliano or Marc Jacobs do in their work.

MB: What do you think of the body standards in the fashion industry?

AK: It’s convenient for the industry to still treat models as interchangeable, with the same height, same size, because it’s convenient for designers. But fashion has a purpose to represent real people, in my opinion. 

I personally have a slim frame, and the fashion industry is representative of me in that way, but I’m not considered tall enough, despite being 5'7". That exclusion made me realize how damaging the industry standards can be. Fashion should be about joy and self-expression, it shouldn’t make people feel unworthy. For me, the rejections hurt. I now always choose models intentionally, for my own designs, based on their interesting features and characters, not simply by sizing them up.

MB: What do you hope to contribute to the fashion industry? 

AK: I have a few goals, I definitely want my work to have a meaning beyond aesthetics. I think that embracing diversity in fashion is important, and celebrating all kinds of beauty — not just conventional model standards. I care about sustainability, and aim to work with vegan and locally-sourced products to minimize environmental damage. And an important aspect of fashion and art for me is community building. I dream of creating a collaborative artisan community where designers, photographers, and creators work together, like the Vampire’s Wife did. Fashion is an art form, but it's also a source of community — it should be ethical, and rooted in storytelling. 

MB: What legacy do you hope to leave behind?

AK: I want people to dream, and to provide them the space to do that wherever I can. I hope that people will look at my work and feel inspired to create their own worlds, to believe in the beauty of imagination and creativity.

I think if I can help people to escape the mundane, even for a moment, I’d have done something meaningful and worthy.

MB: That’s beautiful, thank you ANNA. 

Styling & Design ANNA KOSIDLO

Images BORIS WINDMEIJER & FRANEK MICHOŃ

Models ANNA KOSIDLO & ANASTASIA ESIK & EMMA GALOGAZA (INNOCENCE MODELS)

Hair & Make-up MANAR CHAARA

Words MICHA BRAAKSMA & CICELY HODGE

Date 20/3/2025